Installment #32 in Monolisticle's Ongoing Campaign Against the "Internet of Endless Listicles."
Truth: The most eco-conscious purchase a person can make is to make no purchase at all.
There, I said it.
And now that’ve I’ve said it, allow me to take it back. Because while the notion of foregoing new purchases to protect the environment may be a wonderful ideal, it’s incredibly unpractical. Not to mention zero fun. Fortunately, new brands have emerged that make it possible for us to pursue our love for fashion while still respecting our love for the planet.
While I’m nowhere near Greenpeace-level activism or Freegan-level anti-consumption, I do go out of my way to help the environment and make necessary sacrifices of convenience…to a limit. To be honest, I'm like most well-intentioned but practical people. I do what I can, when I can. I bike to work year-round. I don’t buy many new things. And I support local companies and am loyal to brands that have sustainability missions and a history of activism.
Take the most well-known eco-friendly apparel company Patagonia, for instance. Patagonia has gone so far as to encourage its customers to buy less, buy used, and repair what they wear out. Amazingly (or brilliantly), this does not appear to be hurting their business at all. In fact, it’s most likely increased sales. People love buying from companies that take a stand. A respected client of mine once said, "it’s not a principle unless it costs you money." The reality is that when principles are authentic and actually lived out by the company, it pays off in the long run.
What's great is that it's not just Patagonia. Many other apparel companies have stepped up as well. In a big way. And frankly, the fashion industry needed it badly. “Fast fashion” has been catastrophic to the environment. Fortunately, for the enlightened among us, fast fashion has become about as cool as smoking a pack of Marlboros. As much fun as it may be to have an ever-evolving wardrobe, it’s as environmentally friendly as a fleet of Hummers.
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So then, which brands are actually doing it well? Who are the leaders of the "slow fashion" movement?
It can sometimes be difficult to tell. While I very loudly and emphatically applaud any company making legitimate (and sincere) efforts to be more eco-friendly and sustainable in its practices, for some companies, unfortunately, it’s merely green-washing. By writing cleverly vague copy and dropping buzz words backed by little substantive change, many fashion brands are merely creating the perception that they are eco-conscious.
So how do you know which brands are just saying it, versus actually being it? To help guide you, here are some things to look for:
B Corporation status: while this is not the end-all-be-all for criteria, it's a good sign. B Corporation status is certified by B Lab, a nonprofit organization that evaluates companies based on rigorous standards of social and environmental performance, accountability, and transparency.
Sustainable sourcing: clothing made from recycled materials such as recycled cashmere or cotton, organic cotton (verified by GOTS), Tencel, or regenerated materials; lack of chemicals, pesticides and dyes.
Circularity: apparel brands that facilitate the reuse and recycling of materials.
Water consumption: reduction in the amount of water wasted during manufacturing.
Fix and repair programs that increase the lifespan of clothing.
Transparent supply chain and factory conditions, including living wages. Several apparel companies we researched provide factory names and locations on their websites, along with 3rd party audits, in-person visits, and other means to ensure ethical and humane practices.
Fair Trade and Fair Labor Certification.
But before we get to the most eco-friendly clothing brand of them all, here’s one more plug for used clothing. In addition to eBay, there’s the newly popular ThredUP, the world’s largest online thrift store. ThredUP allows people to buy and sell used clothing. It may not beat your local thrift store for overall eco-friendliness, but the selection is hard to top.
So without further delay, here are the companies that stood out. Some are doing similar things, and others have a unique point-of-view on what truly matters when it comes to sustainability:
Cuyana:
I love Cuyana’s sustainability philosophy of a leaner closet with fewer, better items. Through superior quality materials, timeless design, and repairing items rather than replacing them, people can maximize wear. They can also further extend the life of the item by resale or donation.
tentree:
In addition to its B Corporation status, I love the fact that they plant 10 trees for every purchase made (over 50 million trees planted to date).
Outerknown:
I love the fact that 90% of beachwear brand Outerknown’s materials are organic, recycled or regenerated. The company was also founded by pro surfer Kelly Slater and fittingly places a huge emphasis on protecting our oceans.
Everlane:
I love Everlane’s Radical Transparency approach to everything from factories to pricing. It also has clean, simple, and beautiful designs.
And now, finally...
....THE WORLD'S MOST ECO-CONSCIOUS (AND STYLISH) CLOTHING BRAND is...
Reformation
This is the brand that impressed me the most. Not only do their clothes not look like they’ve been compromised in any way by the company’s adherence to sustainability, they also prove that sustainability doesn’t have to be boring. The website design is clean and understated. The copy is witty, unpretentious, and even funny at times: “Being naked is the #1 most sustainable option. We’re #2.” (How could you not love these people?)
If you delve into Reformation’s website, the degree to which they are transparent and comprehensive in their commitment to sustainability is exceptional (some would say, almost to a fault). Click on their “sustainability” section in their navigation bar and read through the various items. They are extremely transparent and upfront about their areas for improvement. The honesty is appreciated, and refreshing.
Also check out their product details. Along with the usual product information such as size and color options, they also include the product’s sustainability impact (carbon dioxide, water, and waste savings based on how it compares to other clothes purchased in the U.S.), as well as fabric source (ex, recycled cashmere).
While they may not have the size or name recognition of some fashion brands, Reformation is helping to lead the way in eco-friendly and sustainable fashion. They even have a partnership with the previously-mentioned ThredUP online thrift store.
The great news is, eco-consciousness is not a fashion trend that will go out of style like last year’s spring line. It’s here to stay. And it’s playing an ever-increasing factor in purchases. Enlightened consumers now expect it, and they are purchasing accordingly.
If you're looking for a local Reformation store, they have several locations in California and New York, as well as stores in Austin, Miami, Toronto, Chicago, Boston, Dallas, D.C., and London.
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